Travel Diary
Sunday, July 9
Steve wrote:
After breakfast we said goodbye to the Savoy, one of the nicest hotels we've ever stayed at, not just for the rooms and facilities, including free Internet access in their business center, but the staff could not have been friendlier. Especially one of the housekeepers we would see every morning who would engage Rosemary in conversation in Italian. At first it started as small talk and Rosemary was able to keep up her end of the conversation, but once she started speaking Italian to her, the housekeeper would launch into conversation at regular (i.e., fast) speed and Rosemary would try to keep up, mostly successfully.
A short ride to the train station and a 90 minute trip brought us to Rome and the Hotel Hassler, located at the top of the Spanish Steps. Upon entering the hotel, it felt like an old fashioned luxury hotel, which it turned out to be. I'd like to tell you about their fabulous restaurant, but, since I didn't bring a sports coat, I could not get in. Our room overlooked the Steps and, when not too hot to open the shutters (which was never), we had a nice view.
We unpacked and decided to stroll the neighborhood a little before dinner. Tonight is the World Cup finals between Italy and France, and everywhere we looked, there were people in blue jerseys with faces painted and flags flying.
Up the street is the first McDonald's in Italy, much bigger and nicer than any I have seen in the US, including a salad bar and a gelato/expresso/dessert stand at the entrance. Except for the above, the menu is about the same as in the US, with the addition of a prosciutto sandwich and some breakfast pastries. Although we didn't eat anything, we swore to each other that we would never reveal that we had stepped inside.
Rosemary wrote:
The hotel is too elegant for the casual clothes we brought. The concierge made a reservation for us at a nearby restaurant, but when we got there they weren't ready (and weren't ready and still weren't ready), expecting potential customers to wait outside, standing in the heat and the light rain. We went elsewhere.
Steve wrote:
Talked to my sister again and my father is improving slightly, so I don't think we will have to leave Italy earlier than planned.
When we got back to the hotel, the match was still on, so I watched until it was over while Rosemary read. Italy won, so immediately after the match the streets were filled with happy soccer fans, cheering, singing, blowing horns, etc. Not as bad as I would have thought, given our proximity to the Steps, and we were able to sleep despite the noise.
WE'RE NUMBER ONE!!
Monday, July 10
Steve wrote:
Despite meeting at the appointed time of 7:45, the line for groups to enter was quite long and our guide, Francesca, was worried that we might not get in, as there are limits to the number of groups allowed in at a time. Fortunately, we were part of the thundering herd that gained admittance. The Vatican has one of the largest and oldest art collections in the world, so much so that when the Popes hundreds of years ago needed some extra cash, they sold off pieces as necessary. There's a pretty good description on our web page from our last trip, but something new we saw this time was the Popes' former apartment, with all the walls and ceilings painted by Raphael. There was tremendous rivalry among artists and, since Michelangelo did the Sistine Chapel, the apartment gave Raphael his chance to shine, and shine he did.
Rosemary wrote:
We dropped out of the tour when we reached the Sistine Chapel so we could stay as long as we wanted. This time we remembered to bring the bincoulars. It was wonderful to be able to really look at the details, especially those faces.
Steve wrote:
Even though we had see it before, it still amazed me. I know little about religion or art, but this has to be the single greatest achievement by any artist. We spent about 45 minutes in the Chapel, remembering this time to bring our binoculars for a closer look, since no photos may be taken. Speaking of which, I'm constantly amazed by the stupidity of humans. There are signs everywhere and frequent announcements in about ten languages saying no photos or videos, yet people all over are taking pictures, some even using their flash, which destroys the artwork, and the guards are kept busy telling these idiots to put their cameras away.
I overheard an American asking aloud why no photos could be taken, even without flash, and I explained that the Vatican owned the rights to all the images and would not allow them to be captured, and he said, “I guess that is why I bought this”, holding up a coffee table book. I agreed that it was.
For lunch, we went to Ciao Bella on Via Veneto, another place we had been on our previous trip. Steve took a picture of me sitting in the same spot as last time. We strolled along the street to the Borghese Gardens where we walked for a while, then we circled back and visited the very creepy Cappuccin Crypt. Dinner was at one of the cafes on Piazza del Popolo, where we had eaten on our last trip.
Steve wrote:
It seems that several hundred years ago, these monks had a monastery and cemetery outside of town but were forced to move. Rather than leave behind the bones of their 4,000 dead brothers, they dug them up and moved everyone into town. At some point, they decided to put the bones on display. And on display they are! Small rooms under the church are filled with skulls, vertebrae, arm and leg bones, etc., stacked decoratively, linked over arches, strung from side to side. It was as if Hannibal Lecter and Martha Stewart had set up housekeeping. One of the creepiest things I've ever seen.
Tuesday, July 11
Rosemary wrote:
We got up early to be at the Palatine Hill when it opened. This is a great site for anyone who likes to wander among ancient ruins. It's right above the Forum, but not as well known, so even though it's on the same admission ticket as the Colossuem, not so many people go there. These is where the many of ancient Roman emperors lived, in a huge palace with elaborate grounds and every modern convenience. From the hill there are views of the former Circus Maximus, the Forum, the Colosseum, and beyond.
There were some amazing ruins and shells of walls, rooms, great dining halls, a small stadium with racetrack, and portions of mosaics, sculptures, columns and frescoes. Somewhat overlooked among the other major attractions, we wanted to be sure to see it, as there have been discussions of closing the area due to some walls coming down unexpectedly.
Rosemary wrote:
Afterwards, we went on to the Colosseum, and did Rick Steves' tour of the Forum. We were looking for a particular spot ("walk halfway up the ramp...") and found it easily because we spotted another couple with the same book in hand standing there.
The temperature today exceeded 100°F! Despite the baking heat, the streets were packed with tourists, including us. We had lunch in a little place near the hotel and then walked to the Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and Piazza Navona.
Steve wrote:
We went to the Colosseum<, which we had also seen on our last trip. A structural marvel, it was designed as two amphitheaters joined together. The original floor has been removed, and you can see underneath a labyrinth of hallways that held soldiers, gladiators, animals and the Christians who fought them. Although constantly being repaired/renovated/restored, much of the original structure still exists after 2,000 years.
After a quick food and rehydration break, we went to the Forum, the center of Roman society for hundreds of years. You can walk on the same stones as Julius Caesar without fear of a treasonous death but of a severely sprained ankle, due to the uneven terrain. A history course within a couple of square miles! Hungry and hot (over 100 degrees today, I believe), we went back to the hotel for a cool shower before lunch. We found a nice little restaurant (Zio Ciro) where I ordered what has become my “regular” lunch while here, a seafood salad. Not strictly a salad as Americans know it, it's marinated calamari, octopus, shrimp, crab, mussels, clams and anything else they can find with some finely sliced carrots, celery, olives, etc. Cool and refreshing, it makes a great lunch on a hot day.
We wandered a bit more, over to the Trevi Fountain, where legend has it that it you throw coins in the fountain, you will come back to Rome. Threw some coins in two years ago, and here I am, so I'm not taking any chances this time, and not throwing in any coins. Rosemary did, however, so I'm guessing she'll be coming back with her next husband.
Revisited the Pantheon, the Duomo of all Duomos, and another fountain before my spirit and back gave out. Went back to the Hassler for a quick rest and our third shower of the day, then dinner at a restaurant at the bottom of the Steps (Caffà Leonardo) and went to bed.
Rosemary wrote:
Many street performers dress up as statues or historical figures and pose on platforms where tourists can be photographed with them in exchange for some coins. In their makeup and costumes, it's a hot job! At Piazza Navona we saw a guy with a slightly different twist. He was dressed as Death, scythe and all, and would stalk tourists and play at dragging them back to his spot. Some people fled from him, others laughingly volunteered for the pictures.
Wednesday, July 12
Steve wrote:
We had thought about going back to Pompeii but didn't relish six hours in a train on a day as hot as this. Rosemary had read about Ostia Antica, the original port for the Rome area, which was only an hour away by local trains.
So, having mastered the London Underground and the Venice vaporettos, we decided to take on the Rome railway system, did a little studying and now believe we can figure out how to get to Ostia by train. There's a Metro station for the “A” line behind the Spanish Steps and, after figuring out how to buy a ticket, we descended into the cool tunnel for the “A” line to go to the central Termini station to switch to the “B” line. The “A” cars are newer and fully air conditioned. The “B” line and subsequent commuter train to Ostia, however, are not and are at least 20 degrees hotter, plus the commuter train is full of teens in bathing suits going to the beach and wondering who the sweaty old guy next to them is.
Ostia could be viewed as a poor man's Pompeii. Pompeii was a resort city populated by wealthy people living lives of luxury. Ostia was Roman colony, a port town with a naval base, and eventually an important warehousing and administrative center. It was full of regular working people. Pompeii came to a sudden, dramatic end, buried under tons of hot volcanic ash. Ostia ran out of steam when the Tiber silted up and the port was abandoned, and it was gradually buried by mud. Both ancient cities are now available for our viewing, but Ostia is less well-known and thus, much less crowded.
Steve wrote:
With all of this, some of the effects of dehydration have caught up with me and I'm a bit off today, but we soldier on. More ruins, this time not of a palace or rich town, like Pompeii, but of a working class town. Despite their poverty, portions of the brickwork still stand today. Ostia has a cafeteria with better food than we expected and it's actually air conditioned by US standards.
Rosemary wrote:
Although many shops and retaurants in the cities we've visited have signs claiming they are air conditioned, we have learned that this is usually just a trick. It means that somewhere in the building there is a fan that might or might not (usually not) be blowing a little bit of air near the ceiling. More often than not, it's hotter inside than out. Real air conditioning is found in hotel rooms, the expensive boutiques along Via Condotti, and McDonald's.
Steve wrote:
After a few hours of wandering around in the hot sun, we took the trains back to the Spanish Steps. Duke Ellington was right - when in Rome, as in Harlem, “Take the 'A' train”.
After a break and a cool shower, we wandered a little and found a decent looking restaurant (Otello alla Concordia). More than decent, they served leg of lamb, cut with the bone still attached, making the lamb tender and delicious, served with some potatoes roasted with olive oil. Definitely not recommended by Jenny Craig, but delicious none the less.
Thursday, July 13
Steve wrote:
It's our last full day in Rome, but we are pretty tired and decide not to do too much and take cabs when we can. We go to Campo de' Fiori, an open air market, and wander the surrounding streets. Other than the paper mache sun in Venice, a few gifts on Murano and my Italian soccer shirt, we haven't really done any shopping. The timing has been wrong (we want to shop when they close for a three-hour lunch), the weather (who wants to try on clothes in 100 degree heat?) and not a clear direction of what she wants. I'm lucky that Rosemary is not extravagant, so when she says she wants to go shopping in Rome, how can I say no? But the morning proceeds uneventfully, so we decide to take in a couple of sights.
After spending 45 minutes trying to find the Church of St. Peter in Chains, which houses some artwork by Michelangelo, we are told that they are closed for three hours, so we head across town by cab to see a site of an old Roman bath. Arriving at the location, we see another McDonald's across the street. We decide to eat there for the following reasons: real air conditioning, drinks with enough ice to actually make them cold, you can sit down without paying extra, clean toilets, and a decent looking salad bar with about 7-8 choices. So, salad and cold drinks it is!
We visited the church built over the site of the baths, which features some design elements by Michelangelo. Man, that guy is everywhere! But, as our previous Vatican guide, Linda, said, “He was unmarried, so he had a lot of time on his hands.” By this time, we were too tired to go back to St. Peter in Chains, and called it a day. We took a short nap and went to dinner at La Penna d'Oca, a restaurant we had enjoyed on our last trip. Service was “leisurely” (the meal took over two hours), but the food was as good as we remembered. We toasted our good time and the friends and clients who had made this trip possible, walked back to the hotel and packed for an early departure.
Friday - July 14 - Rome to Los Angeles
Steve wrote:
Went down to breakfast at 7:15 to find them WAY behind schedule on set up and service, but we soon found out why. One of the doormen came in to tell us that, as of midnight last night, the taxi drivers were on strike. Having planned to take a cab to the airport in about 15 minutes, we left breakfast and went straight to the concierge, who was able to hire a car for us. The doorman told us that when he came to work, he was told not to change into his uniform, because he had to take some guests with an early morning flight to the airport. You hear stories of the Italian unions going on strike periodically, but usually they give more notice.
A great vacation, but I'm glad it's over and glad to be home. Tomorrow, we pick up the cats from being boarded and resume real life as we know it.
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