Return to Rome - 2006, Part 2 of 3

The Spanish Steps aren't really Spanish; they got the name from the Spanish embassy which has been across the piazza for 300 years. For a long time this area was the center of a thriving British community in Rome. The building on the left houses Babington's Tearooms, established in 1883. The building on the right was where the poet John Keats died in 1821. Across the street, Lord Byron lived at number 66 for a short time.

Cops at the Spanish Steps.

The steps are usually active and noisy, filled with people and street vendors, the fountain surrounded by a huge
crowd. But when the World Cup match started, no one was left but a few clueless tourists. By the way, that brown
building at the top, behind the palm tree, is the Hotel Hassler, where we stayed. We lost track of how many times
we went up and down those 138 steps.

The top of this stairway is right next to the top of the Spanish steps. They are approximately at right angles
to each other, the base of this one on the edge of a small piazza just around the corner from the Piazza di Spagna.

Counterfeit handbag vendors working on the Spanish Steps.

The chestnut vendor can take a break; it's too hot to eat those things.

Via Condotti, leading away from the Spanish Steps, is filled with big-name designer shops.
This entire area is a trendy shopping district.

The name says it all.

Some police in fancy uniforms keep an eye on the high-rent district.

Another upscale street, in another part of town, is Via Veneto, known for its cozy sidewalk
cafes, the American embassy, and the Hard Rock Cafe. A tree-lined street is a rare sight in Rome.

Also on the Via Veneto is the church of Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione, which sits above the
crypt of the Cappuchin monks. This is the weirdest place we have ever visited. The bones of over 4000
monks who died between 1528 and 1870 are displayed here in artistic arrangements on the walls and
ceilings. Tourists line up to squeeze through the claustrophic corridors and read the message,
"We were what you are. You will become what we are now. Buon giorno."

This bad imitation of an Egyptian pyramid is the tomb of Gaius Cestius, a wealthy Roman who died
in 12 BC. Later incorporated into the Aurelian Wall, it is now well-known as a subway stop.

A bridge over the Tiber River.

A cat wanders the ancient corridors of the Palatine Hill.

For about 300 years, the Palatine Hill was the royal palace of Rome's emperors,
around 150,000 square feet of luxurious living. Here we see the remains of the stadium.

These "blind" arches used the traditional Roman arch
technique to make walls stronger so they could be built higher.

Less well-known than the nearby Forum and Colosseum, the Palatine Hill is not crowded,
allowing for peaceful exploration of the ruins. The museum houses statues and frescoes.

This large, sunken area is all that remains of the ancient Circus Maximus. Here, workers
remove the bleachers that were set up for a celebration of Italy's World Cup triumph.

The Palatine Hill has a nice view of the Colosseum.

 

The Flavian Amphitheater (now known as the Colosseum), built in A.D. 80, could accomodate
50,000 fans for public spectacles, many of them incredibly violent, cruel and wasteful.
About a third of the original structure remains. With the floor gone, we can see the
underground corridors and rooms that held gladiators, animals and other victims.

The Roman Forum is still paved with the original stones.

 

The remains of the temple of Castor and Pollux.

Walking past the Forum's main square, we approach the arch of Septimus Severus. Beyond
this (not yet visible) are the steep stairs leading to Capitol Hill. In the distance,
we can just glimpse one of the huge statues atop of Victor Emmanuel monument.

It was over 100° Fahrenheit the day we visited the Forum.
Tourists crowded together under the shady trees at the north end.

The Pantheon was originally a temple for all the gods. It is the only ancient Roman building
in continuous use since its construction. Its dome, the largest built prior to the Renaissance,
is a triumph of Roman engineering. The oculus, a round opening in the top of the dome, is the
building's only light source, creating a spotlight effect. Rainwater enters through the uncovered
opening and drains out along the slanted floor.

Inside the Pantheon.

In front of the Pantheon is the obligatory fountain.

The first time we visited Rome, this little gelateria was where we had our
first taste of gelato. Of course, we had to repeat that experience!

The ancient Baths of Diocletian once stood where now there is a piazza, a church, an exhibit hall, and a museum.
They were huge! The criss-cross arches of the ceiling were a major architectural feat not seen again for about
1000 years. The church, which used part of the structure of the baths, was designed by Michelangelo in 1561,
but alterations were made by another architect in the 1700s.

The red granite columns date back to the original baths.

Good advice.

"To eat at the table, ask for a price list. Thanks, the Management." This sign at a snack bar's
gelato counter reminds us that we are not allowed to sit down unless we pay extra for table service.

Across from the Pantheon, someone watches the tourists.

Is this really a good name for a gelateria?

We glimpsed this statue as we walked by the open door leading into a courtyard of the Capitol Hill museum.

Even this sculpture at the Piazza del Popolo was celebrating the World Cup.